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GOLCONDA DIAMONDS, OLD-MINE CUTTING STYLE

The Legendary Heritage Of Golconda Diamonds

The term Golconda diamonds refers to the most historical and celebrated group of diamonds that originated in the Golconda Sultanate region of southern India, in what is now the state of Telangana in India. This area—particularly the Kollur mine on the Krishna River—produced the world’s first and most prized diamonds from antiquity until the early 1800s. For around 2,000 years, India was the only known source of gem-quality diamonds, and those from Golconda set the standard for purity and rarity in the gem world.

Because mining activity in the region was largely exhausted by about 1830, authentic Golconda diamonds are antique and historically traceable only through documented provenance.

UNDERSTANDING THE OLD-MINE CUT

Before modern diamond cutting techniques were developed in the 20th century, diamonds were cut by hand using rudimentary tools and methods. The old-mine cut evolved in the late 17th century and flourished through the 18th and early 19th centuries, preceding the modern round brilliant cut. It was one of the earliest forms of a faceted brilliant style and was designed to maximize brilliance under candlelight and natural light.

Key characteristics:

Cushion-like or squarish outline, often slightly irregular due to being cut by hand.

High crown and deep pavilion, creating a deeper, more romantic sparkle.

Small table and large culet, very different from modern cuts that favor symmetry and larger tables.

Brilliant facet patterns, but with less mechanical precision than modern cutting.

Unique individual character, as each stone was shaped manually without standardized machinery.

These traits give old-mine cut diamonds a distinctive antique charm and a softer, warmer brilliance—qualities that are highly prized by collectors and connoisseurs of historic jewelry today.

GOLCONDA DIAMONDS CUT IN OLD-MINE STYLE

Many of the historic diamonds from the Golconda mines that survive today were cut in the old-mine era or display characteristics of that period. While detailed cutting records for many historic stones are limited, a number of celebrated Golconda gems either originally possessed old-mine characteristics or reflect cutting styles contemporary with the old-mine tradition. It is important to mention that some of these Golconda diamonds that originally had an old-mine cutting style, were later recut in more contemporary styles.

The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond

Originally a 35.56-carat deep blue diamond from the Kollur mine, the Wittelsbach Diamond was cut in an antique brilliant style typical of the 17th and early 18th century—akin to old-mine proportions. While it was controversially re-cut in the early 21st century, its original form embodies the early cutting traditions preceding modern standards.

The Grand Mazarin Diamond

This historic Golconda gem, weighing about 19 carats, was named after Cardinal Jules Mazarin, whose 17th-century collection included several old-mine cut stones. These early cushion-like brilliant cuts represent some of the earliest diamonds cut in the style that would evolve into the old-mine tradition.

Light Pink Golconda Diamond

Another example recorded in historic auctions is a 10.14-carat fancy light pink diamond exhibiting an antique old-mine cutting style. Sold in Geneva in 2001, this stone reflects the romantic yet imperfect diamond faceting aesthetics of the period.

D-Colour Cushion Diamonds & Other Golconda Cuts

Many other historic Golconda diamonds—such as large cushion cuts and other antique shapes—reflect the old mining and cutting traditions, with stones from the 16th–18th centuries often showing broad facets, deep profiles, and culets visible from the crown.

These historic old-mine pieces are significant not only for their gemological qualities but also for their historical context: they embody the techniques and aesthetic preferences of their eras, long before modern precision cutting became the industry norm.

The Seraphim Blue Diamond

One of the intriguing and little-seen historic Golconda diamonds associated with the old-mine cutting tradition is the Seraphim Blue Diamond. The Seraphim Blue Diamond is a pear-shaped blue diamond that originated from the Golconda mines, specifically likely from the Kollur site.

It is estimated to weigh approximately 6–8 carats—a relatively modest size compared to other historic Golconda blues, but significant due to its color and style and centuries old royal connection. The Seraphim Blue Diamond was worn by Asaf Jah I, the first Nizam of Hyderabad, as the centerpiece of a turban ornament, implying its royal and ceremonial value.

What makes the Seraphim Blue exceptionally interesting is its combination of old-mine style cutting with a pear shape, which was less common than cushion or oval shapes in the old-mine era.

CONCLUSION

Golconda diamonds represent a unique intersection of natural rarity, historical legacy, and artisanal craft. They are prized not just for intrinsic gemological qualities—such as Type IIa purity and exceptional clarity—but also for their cultural and historical resonance.

The old-mine cut stands as an enduring testament to early diamond cutting traditions, preceding modern standards and reflecting centuries of European and Indian jewelry history. Through historic stones like the Wittelsbach-Graff, Grand Mazarin, and Light Pink Golconda Diamonds, and the elusive Seraphim Blue, this legacy lives on in collections, museums, and the world’s most treasured gemstone archives.

Today, these diamonds enchant not only gemologists and historians but also collectors who appreciate the marriage of natural beauty and human artistry embodied in every facet.

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